Week 1: Auckland to Bay of Islands

10-Feb

1300
Ship's Log: Alongside Princes Wharf, Auckland, New Zealand
Ship’s Position: 36°50.5’S 174°45.8’E

Following our unplanned layover in San Francisco, my fellow shipmates and I received a warm welcome aboard the Robert C. Seamans at Princes Wharf. With time to stash our gear, our NZ experience began with a walking tour of the ever-changing Auckland waterfront, from the cruise ship terminal which we were presently alongside, to the Wynyard Quarter. Auckland's harbors are a balance between tourism, modern development, and a thriving industrial presence with container ships. Today was our introduction to the changeability of New Zealand’s weather, with downpour immediately followed by sunshine. 

A catchy phrase and Queen Elizabeth Park, Auckland, with the sky tower.

11-Feb

0700

Ship's Log: Alongside Princes Wharf, portside to, 37 POB, ship all secure. 

Ship’s Position: 36°50.5’S 174°45.8’E

Mission Bay and Rangitoto Island

Our exploration of the Auckland region continued with a bus tour, guided by Joe Fagan of the University of Auckland. Stops included Mt Eden (a volcanic cinder cone), Mission Bay and a view of Rangitoto volcano, the Cascade Kauri Park, and Bethels beach with its black volcanic sands and fantastic view of the Tasman Sea. More about Kauri trees later on. The Auckland Region, with a population of about 1.5 million, constitutes 33% of NZ's 4.5 million people. After a long day, our exhausted shipmates slept the whole bus ride back.

Shipmates soaking in the view from the Mt Eden summit, 

view of Auckland, Rangitoto in the far right 

Bethels Beach on the West Coast of Auckland

12-Feb

1552

Ship's Log: Let go port hook in 9m of water; veer to two shots. All secure. Anchor watch set, West side of Motuihe Island

Ship’s Position: 36°48.7’S 174°55.9’E, Voyage: 3.4 nautical miles

After a morning of emergency drills and preparation, we were finally ready to set sail! (Well, motor). All hands to General Quarters to bring the Seamans off her dock and motor to Waihaorangatahi Bay, just outside of the city. I was designated helmsman for this first sea journey, and despite the enormous stress of that first job, my shipmates commended me for it. In class today fellow geo-nerd Charlotte and I gave a synopsis of the regional geology, and watched the sun set behind the city and Rangitoto Island. In the local language of Maori, Rangitoto loosely translates to 'blood-filled skies', alluding to its volcanic eruption from the sea around 1400 AD. 

Departing Auckland and a great sunset

13-Feb

0700

Ship's Log: C watch takes the deck at anchor, prepare to get underway, bound for Great Barrier Island. Wind South, Beaufort Force 2, Seas Calm, Sky 8/8ths Cumulus

Ship’s Position: 36°46.5’S 174°57.4’E, Voyage: 42.1 nm

I took the helm again today to leave our anchorage and begin our journey north. We saw gannets and shearwaters bobby in the waves and circling off to starboard, and off in the distance the spouts of whales! Sea sickness began to set in with the constant motion of the deck, but I was later awoken from my afternoon nap to the sound of our anchor chain clanking (yes, it’s right by my bunk). Captain Eliot opened the pool after class for a swim (and shower). 

The helm in the afternoon sun and drying after our swim.

14-Feb

1300

Ship's Log: C watch takes the watch at anchor in Kaiarara Bay, Great Barrier Island. Preparing to get underway, Bound for Russel, Bay of Islands. Winds Easterly F3, Seas ENE 1’. Skies 6/8 Ci, Two shots of chain to the port hook. 

Ship’s Position: 36°11.0’S 175°21.3’E, Voyage: 68.3 nm

Before making sail for the first port stop in Russel, we made an excursion ashore Great Barrier Island in the small boats. We explored the rocky shore creatures of North Island and hiked inland several km through fern, palm, and kauri forest. The kauri tree is the largest in NZ by height (up to 150ft!) and was prized by the Maori for its timber to build huge canoes. Unfortunately, the kauri are threatened by a deadly fungus which attacks them and causes kauri die-back, which we saw on our tour of Auckland.
Crossing a swing bridge over a gravelly river bed we sang Hakuna Matata, a testament to our love of singing and sea shanties. Shortly after lunch we hauled anchor and practiced some sailing maneuvers (gybe and tack) in more open water, as demonstrated by our fantastic crew. Clearly the pilot whales thought the whole thing was interested, since they followed us back out to sea. Today was our first experience seeing the Seamans pulling at her sails, with no motor. Soon enough we would be working to memorize the 70 or so lines that raise, lower, sheet, and adjust her sails.

Robert C. Seamans anchored in Kaiarara Bay and a pod of pilot whales

15-Feb

0300

Ship's Log: C watch relieves B watch, Sailing on a broad reach, starboard tack under the four lowers (main, main staysail, fore staysail, and jib) with a shallow reefed main, steering 280° Per Ship’s Compass, making 2 kts (nm/hr) Speed Over Ground. Wind E’ly F3, seas ExN 3-5’, skies 1/8 St. 
See my post on sailing lingo!

Ship’s Position: 35°30.9’S 175°4.8’E, 17 nm E of Poor Knight Islands, Voyage 133 nm

Woken at 2:30 for dawn watch, this morning I worked in the lab counting euphausids (krill) and differentiating them from shrimp. The stars are so unfamiliar, but I’m getting acquainted to new constellations like the Southern Cross. Did some sail handling and set the topsail, only to strike it after spotting a squall ahead. Our mate Sarah described how we could see the 'vertical development' of the cloud, indicating that stormy weather could follow it. After a sunrise over the ocean I retreated to my bunk until class at 14:30. At 17:00 we passed “the hole in the rock”, or Motukokako Island. Struck the four lowers as we prepared to anchor overnight in Oke Bay in the Bay of Islands.

Hole in the rock and our nautical charts navigating along the coast.

16-Feb

1300

Ship’s Log: A watch relieves C watch sailing port tack under jib, stays’ls, and tops’l, course steered 190 PSC, Wind ENE F4 on approach to Russel and anchorage

Ship’s Position: 35°13.0’S 174°7.6’E, Bay of Islands, Voyage: 180 nm

I thoroughly enjoyed a deep sleep at anchor. C watch again in charge of getting the ship underway from our anchorage this morning. Sailed into deeper water to conduct some science and drop a hydrocast. This would be the first of many scientific stations we would conduct over the cruise, which usually consisted of a hydrocast collecting conductivity, temperature, and depth (CTD) data through the water column, along with surface samples and plankton tows.
Later on we set the tops’l as we made downwind towards Russel. Relieved by A watch, and woken by the anchor chain at 14:30 when we dropped hook in Russel. 

Dew on our compass in the morning and some science offshore!